We left Shepparton and after spending several enjoyable days camping at various sites on the banks of the mighty Murray River we crossed the border into South Australia to a little village called Mannum. Passing through the city of Adelaide we picked up a parcel of stylus and sent off five to waiting clients. I had intended to stay there for a few days but as we have to get to Perth by the first week in June and with nearly 2,500 klms to travel we decided to press on and today the 20th we left Ceduna at the start of our Nullarbor Plains adventure. The weather was atrocious, very wet and with gale force head winds impeding our progress. We made a short detour down to the Head of the Bight which is a premier whale watching area. The extreme weather conditions made the sea very rough and not a whale to be sighted. The wing was so strong that it was difficult to walk against it. It was a relief to get to Eucla as the wind had moderated
and the sun was shining again. At this point the road leaves the coast and goes inland and the weather improved greatly. A fuel stop at Mundrabilla Roadhouse revealed that the extreme wind had caused a thirty percent increase in fuel consumption! At the border the scenery changes quite dramatically from the treeless plains (which Nullarbor means) to stubby growth, to rich wheat belt, to stringy bark forest country. Most noticeable were the spindly trees with a profusion of branches capped with a canopy of shiny green leaves almost like an umbrella. We overnighted in some marvelous rest areas like the one here. Pristine roads lined with small stones, rubbish bins and even a picnic table. Like most rest areas there were no toilets but having our own facilities this did not concern us. Unlike most rest areas the absence of white streamers was very apparent and it was remarkable the small amount of rubbish littering the area. It became clearer next morning when we discovered the rest area we though we had stopped in came into sight two kilometers down the road. I was able to check the GPS readings to establish that the rest area we stayed in was not listed in Camps Australia which is the guidebook for all travellers.
As we approached Norseman we came across increasing numbers of the beautiful Salmon Gum tree. These magnificent trees shed their bark once a year to reveal and incredibly shiny salmon coloured trunk which quickly mellows to a light grey until next season. As we approached Perth the colour changed to a more yellow shade. They were probably a variant of the species because their bark was shed in a mottled patterns unlike the strips of the Salmon gum. We arrived in York and Margaret wanted to attend a weekend market at the Old Mill. After some difficulty arranging Public Liability Insurance we were only able to display on the Sunday. This was quite successful and resulted in us being invited to stop overnight at a place where there was to be an art session next day. Margaret enthralled five ladies who decided they must aquire all the equipment to continue their encaustic journey. From York it is only a short distance to Perth where we became encamped at the Advent Centre. We will stay here for eight nights to await the arrival of my son Deryk and his new bride Claire. They are stopping off
in Perth for a couple of days to see us and then will be returning to their home in Switzerland via South Africa where they will spend ten days checking out the wildlife. During this time we will attend to some necessary service work to the motorhome and our Suzuki.
After collecting Deryk and Claire from Perth Airport we had a quick meal and then set off Northwards for Cervantes and the world famous Pinnacles Dessert. Our overnight stop at a roadside rest area introduced our visitors to the delights
of bush camping. Fortunately they both slept well on our fold down lounge and after showering and breakfast we traveled to few kilometers to our destination There are acres of spectacular rock formations of all shapes and sizes. Some polished smooth and some deeply pitted and creviced. We left the motorhome in the car park and drove around the dessert track in the Suzi, Deryk, an avid photographer, found many photo opportunities.
After lunch we headed off to New Norcia, Australia’s only Monastic Town. Founded by Spanish Monks in 1846 it is famous for its collection of buildings featuring Spanish architecture and Australia’s finest collection of religious paintings. Some twenty years ago thieves broke in and stole many of the paintings severely damaging them by rough cutting the canvas from their frames, Our last visit here
was in 2006 for the celebration of the return of the beautifully restored paintings. Today we had a two hour conducted tour and learned much of the history of New Norcia and their Monks. We visited the school premises where where so many indigenous children were educated voluntarily and not forced. There were no “stolen generation” here. After camping overnight in the Monastary grounds we headed back to Perth to find medical facilities so that our guests could have an injection which has suddenly become mandatory for entry into South Africa. This